style brick road

Wednesday, 16 April 2014

Deconstructed America

It's sometimes truly enough to see a set of photos to create a story of its own.

As I was having my daily fashion catch-up, I visited my probably favourite online destination for menswear news - Highsnobiety where I was happy to find out their amazing new editorial exclusively featuring Juun.J's (whose work I already wishlisted here) current collection. And although it was an editorial one could call promotional, I absolutely fell in love with both the images and clothes. 
It didn't took a second to understand the approach of both the editorial staff and the designer himself - the idea of deconstructing sportswear uniforms and silhouettes into modern-day, futuristic elegant Varsity-inspired garments.
Some may say the collection is old news, as it was shown last summer, but I call it a contemporary vision of menswear - playing the line of androgyny with extremely classical features inside the idea of male shapes. It's a story of a American high-schooler growing up into a real man, fashion-forward and both history and future-obsessed. The layers of a infinitely light and easy collection is making me truly want to know more, and in the end - understand the vision.

The editorial for Highsnobiety interpreted the clothes in an appropriate yet slightly different way - I get an understanding of a younger boy trying to grow up out of his clothes, yet unsuccessfully winning over the oversized and undersized silhouettes. While the shorts are quite short, the baggy tops are baggy - it's something of a extremization of forms that makes you feel both uncomfortable and uneasy as a viewer, but at second sight - it truly makes sense.

Juun.J is all about balance and I find that fact essential for the 21st century commerce-obsessed wardrobe - and if I had a nicer paycheck/allowance, I'd instantly get me one of his oversized button-ups, a boxy mid-sleeved top and a pair of his double-hipline trousers. But for the skinny-leg guys or nice-legged girls - the shorts are a must!! Unfortunately - I'm stuck with occasional designer sale buys and high-street brands, but if you've got some $$$$$ to yourself, you'll be able to find these amazing clothes at Farfetch, Ssense and Opening Ceremony.
Photos from Highsnobiety, Dazed Digital & Fashionisto

Monday, 14 April 2014

Tape-a-stride

It's a unique kind of feeling, the one you have after having a hectic week (not complaining - some wonderful moments happened to be a great deal of it) and it's that Sunday night when everything needs to be done. And of course it isn't. And of course it won't be - because there aren't enough hours and minutes. So, at this very moment I'm having that panick-y feeling, and what do I go to do - write something up on the blog, just because the guilt of not sharing anything for days and days is a bit bigger than the guilt I have due to not finishing my work. I know, I'm SUCH an altruist...

But as I had this set of photos set for SBR for almost a week now, I've been thinking of the right way of presenting that's close to my heart in a way that not many things are. I still remember a tapestry couch in my late grandfather's old apartment which I recall as being one of my favourite things to sit at, and still is one of my greatest childhood memories I relate to him. Translated into my world of today, which I would like to believe is fashion, I'm kinda screeching over the Autumn/Winter 2014 Paul Smith menswear collection which was shown in January during the London menswear shows. Inspired by rock idols like Jim Morrison, Mr Smith created a unique interpretation of this amazing material and sent so many pieces of outerwear I'm seriously eyeing. I know it's a luxury brand, but the parka-like jacket is something I would wear, and wear, and wear... Womenswear equivalent of the Paul Smith is the major Italian fashion house of Valentino, where Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierre Paolo Piccioli keep showing consistant, romantic garments that are both dreamy and wearable in the same time. Their glamourous story for AW14 kept their essence, but threw in the tapestry textile which added a new dimension to their romanticist approach to a woman's body. 

As I was researching my fat arse off about tapestry in fashion and art, I discovered a really inspiring story - the one of Chuck Close. He's an American artist that paints and photographs, but also creates tapestries - all in the domain of hyper-realism. And although I'm not always a fan of recreating reality in arts (because I believe art is not reality, it's a way of translating one's unique vision of the reality to the world), his story really made me think twice about that thought. Although heavily paralyzed, Close has continued to create his work, and maybe even proved that his realistic vision is the right one. It's really inspiring as a story, but also as artwork - because who wouldn't like to have Kate Moss or Brad Pitt tapestries the artist creates in collaboration with an artwork Magnolia Studios. I know I would.

It's quite convenient that one of my best 21st b.day gifts also includes a tapestry textile - it's thank to my dear friend Igrajna who custom-made my jacket out of little-people-printed material I now call my multi-national jacket. She mostly uses the material for womenswear coats and skirts so I was very very pleased when I got my one-of-a-kind jacket! Ps. I'm planning on proposing this jacket as the official United Nations uniform... Wouldn't that be quite dashing? :3

Paul Smith's AW14 vision - including rockstars and gobelins
The house of Valentino embraced their womanity and mixed lace with brocade to create unique textiles
Recreating contemporary, simplified pieced out of elaborated materials is what Marie Turnor is all about, and happy me - tapestry was one of her choices, you can find all deets on this beautiful wrap-clutch HERE (link)
Who wouldn't die for this shoes? Whether it's thew Doc Martens brogue or the Carven slipper - it would perfectly round up my tapestry obsession.
Wearing Iggy multi-national tapestry jacket, Zara cap, vintage silk shirt, Marina Marinski brooch, Reclaimed Vintage fanny pack, H&M trousers, Minelli shoes

Wednesday, 9 April 2014

Lindbergh-mania?!

If you're reading any kind of Croatian or regional fashion media, you're (too) well aware of the current it place in Zagreb so I'm a bit hesitant in talking about the 'talk of the town, but I've got a really good story - so listen up!

It has never been even imaginable in my Croatian little mind that I would ever get a chance to meet one of the  gods of fashion photography, let alone get a group tour of his exhibition and a chance to ask him anything I wanted. And everything in my little hometown of Zagreb. Meeting Peter Lindbergh and his latest exhibitions in Zagreb’s HDLU (Croatian Association of artists) space was probably the best fashion-related experience I’ve had in my short 21-years-old life.

The month-long exhibition is presented in 2 separated exhibitions – ‘Images of Women’ and ‘The Unknown’ which are detached like two completely different points of Lindbergh’s artistry – first is B&W, his emotional approach to women through his soft and gentle lens while the other is in technicolor and defines Peter and his work in the new millennium. It’s about Martians attacking the land – a literally SF approach that’s a bit more indecisive than the first part, but not less interesting.

My point is not to talk you through the exhibition – you should either really go and see it or just google it through – because there’s many of media that did just so. I want to translate the feeling of his work, feeling kinda detained (in the best way possible) in that amazing circular space of HDLU. Even the artist himself said the space is what made him happy, with a spheral shape that gives you an emotion of continuation, as that is what he wants to show with his work. 

Thanks to the amazing organising arrangements and management by the great PRiredba agency, everyone got a chance to ask absolutely anything – and I (as a big geek) naturally grabbed the time and asked him a few questions. The most banal one was the one I didn’t expect him to answer, yet he (of course!) did – he told me his 3 muses were Linda Evangelista due to their great connection, Kristen McMennamy due to her amazing knowledge of modelling (he said one can put her in front of a white wall and she will do magic) and Christy Turlington which he mentioned isn’t very creative but is one of the most beautiful women out there. He later said he doesn’t like (in fact he used the term hate) celebrities and the phenomena of celebrity covers, but as we passed a Mila Jovovich shot of his – he said ‘Oh, yes – I adore her, she’s amazing’. The last question I asked him was about the difference between his colour and B&W photography, after which I got a pretty elaborative answer – he mostly highlighted the difference of him maturing, accepting technology and the new trends, but still defined the black and white photography as more honest and true, referring to pioneers like Dorothea Lange (whose work I personally adore).

The third part of the exhibition is a multimedia art piece that’s done in collaboration with his son Benjamin who did the sound for his abstract video inspired by the architecture of the sole building where the exhibition is held. Once again – a new side of Lindbergh I haven’t previously encountered.

It’s needless to say yet I still have an urge to repeat that to everyone and myself - Mr Lindbergh is unimaginably down to earth, ready to give answers to every question you and I have, patiently explaining his inspirations or defining the moments or stories behind a photograph. At the age of 70 he’s full of enthusiasm, but in an appropriate and mature kind of way – he’s not fascinated by fashion itself, on the contrary – he kind loathes the pretensions of fashion today or in general. When he said ‘I love a pair of Comme des Garçons trousers, but I would never wear them’ I was convinced – he knew fashion, understood it yet never gave it a chance to wow him. That’s something I took as a life inspiration for myself – to conquer it, you need to make it real and tangible. Thank you Mr Lindbergh – from now on, I’ll aspire to do so.
Lindbergh made a remark about this photograph being the first narrative piece of fashion photography from Vogue USA, in 1990
Maison Martin Margiela trench coat, H&M jeans, Zara scarf, Marni x H&M cashmere jumper, Doc Martens shoes
Thanks to Jure Perisic for my shot with mister Lindbergh himself.
Special thanks to PRiredba for organising this amazing event!