style brick road

Wednesday, 1 October 2014

Magic Pearls

Photo by Borut Peterlin
Architecturally seductive. Successful. A neighbour.

Describing something extremely complex in a simplified manner – that was my idea behind presenting the 4 (and a half) words in front of a young talent named Peter Movrin. Slovenian by birth (hence the neighbour reference), but international by work, Peter has been building his portfolio these past few years, and so in a way that sounds almost unreal. Especially for someone from the Ex-Yu territory.

Lady Gaga wearing his work on transatlantic flights and during performances, simultaneously having his pieces sold in the visually stunning Church boutique in Los Angeles, California (to name one), going to Central Saint Martins and working with the late Louise Wilson, participating at the prestige MoBA biennale… etc. etc. (I don’t want to be repeating his recent interview for ELLE Croatia, my last issue as a contributor) I am just picking up and patching together the biggest pieces of a story that surely has many, many chapters to continue with.

Although all of his past work (he first came to my notice as part of the Young @ Squat collective) tell stories that are comparable to visual orgasms (not being overly dramatic), his latest collection (Spring/Summer 2015) is what enamoured my full attention. Understanding the feeling of woman wearing jewellery (or how Movrin says - bijoux) and transcribing that feeling into clothes was the focal point, and successfully translated indeed. Literally weaving the bijoux into the textile, and creating a hybrid of the two feels both banal and incredible at the same time. All of those textural games don’t make him forget the silhouettes – fluid at moments, constricted at others. A constant duality and contrast has been part of his work from the early beginnings (or at least from the moments that I could find during my laborious online research) and that’s what irresistibly reminds you that he’s still a young talent, creatively unspoiled and hardworking. His latest success mustn’t be omitted – Peter presented his work during the Fashion Week in Milan as one of the Vogue Italia talents, and (to everyone’s delight) met with likes of Anna Wintour, Alexandra Shulman, Anna Dello Russo, Franca Sozzani and many more.

It is only on rare occasions that I felt intimidated by a piece of clothing, and Peter’s work projected that exact feeling of fear inside me. Unpacking the t-shirt was an almost holistic experience (once again, I’M NOT BEING OVERLY DRAMATIC!) as it felt like some kind of an aura surrounded it. I’ve heard people saying those kind stuff, mostly about a pair of shoes or a bag, but I’ve never really believed it. Now I (almost) understand – it’s that personal mixture of respect and a wish-come-true that makes your heart tingle a bit. To be honest, the only time I felt remotely like this was when Sonja Lamut made me a custom-made neon yellow suit.

And now this black piece of fashion is probably the new favourite piece in my closet.

ps. Now I’m writing this, I’m extremely sorry I didn’t ask Peter for a quick interview – unfortunately and thanks to my stupid self, while putting this whole thing together in my mind I haven’t realised how much potential a story like this one has. Note to self: believe more in your own work.

SS15 photography by Maya Nightingale

Peter Movrin's pearl t-shirt, @ Cruise Collections 2014, part of Young @ Squat
Wearing a Peter Movrin pearl t-shirt, grandad's white shirt (find similar shirt), Matija Čop oversized trousers, Doc Martens brogues (find similar-style shoes), Daniel Wellington watch (find the watch here), Giles & Brothers brass bracelet (find the bracelet here), Sheriff & Cherry sunglasses and Lucija Vrcić backpack

Thursday, 25 September 2014

Tender Love & Claire

Although I wouldn’t have anything against big-venue high-glam shows like the ones at Burberry or Paul Smith, there is a true excitement about going to dark, shabby places that lead you under the ground. Judging by Emily Sheffield’s (deputy editor at Vogue UK) words at the Vogue’s Fashion Night Out event at Selfridges (a conversation with the talented and extremely nice Erdem) – opaque, dodgy places is what London was all about 10 years ago. That kind of a throwback really sings an ode to the past new-generation (Kane, Roksanda, Erdem, Katrantzou etc.) and gives a true scent of the up-and-coming, a fresh now-generation just waiting to become part of the LFW household.

One of those places (although you can’t really call Marylebone dodgy) was Theatre Delicatessen in Marylebone Gardens, hosting a multimedia presentation of Claire Barrow’s Spring/Summer 2015 collection named Tender Love and Care. This high-end D.I.Y.-er (she insists on the D.I.Y. part herself) has already been loved by the young and cool, those that party in East London and attend the Fashion East shows – but thanks to Topshop’s NEWGEN project (same one Faustine Steinmetz was part of), she got to show her collection separately second season in a row. 

Her vision of super-heroines in the bodies of post-apocalyptic nurses that go on saving the world provided the audience with a true visual feast as her cuts and silhouettes were more elaborate than ever before, accompanied with the graphic prints telling a narrative of its own. The apocalypse of the Western world as we know it today was a true leitmotif – unfinished & rough edges, almost-holistic hand-painting graphics and a strong feministic, armour-y approach towards clothing spoke truly loudly, without using any loud colours. Matching illustrated footwear were really another stand-out moment for the designer - a product of an exclusive collaboration with Purified Footwear added a perfect touch of prim to her rebellious story. She even threw in a couple of menswear looks (although androgyny is not an unfamiliar word in Claire Barrow dictionary) which I responded to with inner claps (the atmosphere was kinda serious so a mini-applause was a definite no). Aside the dark-room fashion show, she showed a fashion film showcasing her current collection (directed by Theo Sion, starring Eve Stainton) which was an interesting approach and a rich addition to completing a story of branding for such a young designer.

Designers like Claire truly put a smile on my face, and are a rightful middle-finger-in-the-air to anyone who says that London has become a commercial capital. As long as you’ve got buzzing ideas like these – you can’t really go wrong... 

Claire Barrow SS15 from Claire Barrow on Vimeo.