style brick road: January 2014

Wednesday, 29 January 2014

fashion fitness.

As I'm getting older, (ugh, I swore I will never use this phrase but...) I really start thinking more and more about comfort and easy-to-wear factor of clothes. I'm not saying I'll jump into Crocs and a onesie (although...), but I'm really not into constricting myself in any way anymore. It's probably a phase that's got to do with all of my exams and other life-changing decisions/moves I'm having to make. But still, I always take a phase that falls from the sky and run with it. Meaning: I'm all into comfy looks, but I still try to make them interesting somehow.

As I was eagerly covering the Autumn/Winter 2014 menswear fashion shows (via style.com of course), I had an instant connection with one. Yes it was miles from my aesthetically typical point of view, but it was nothing less than interesting. Kokon To Zai is a London-based brand I discovered scrambling through internet few years ago, just before the Oscars of 2010, when (as any other celeb-style junkie) I wanted to remind myself (once again) of all the fabulous gowns that became part of the Oscar history. And as I was scratching through all of the Gwyneth Palthrows and Meryl Streeps, I stumbled upon that crazy-bat swan dress Björk wore in 2001. So, as most of the people that know anything about Oscars I remembered that dress, but I couldn't think of the designer that was responsible for that major moment. Logically, I googled (TGFG - Thank God for Google) and the name Marjan Pejoski jumped out. It had a Balkanian feel to it, so I searched and searched (Marjan is Macedonian!) and came to the name of the brand Kokontozai where he works as the Creative Director, and his fella Koji Muruyama sits as head of the design. That was the moment when my love for avant-garde sportswear came to life.
Futuristic Monochromatic Tribe: KTZ unites a young vision and an experienced hand  
Aesthetically speaking, the futuristic and out-there point of view is simply a mix of anything you could find in Camden town (hence, Cyberdog or any other rave store) with a creative uniqueness of putting sportswear feeling in the focus. The rave culture of the 80's is a thing one can (and some probably did) write books and books about, but KTZ brings it all in its fun collections. Mix it up with bits of futuristic tribal, and there you go. For A/W 2014, Marjan & Koji brought the monochromatic B&W scheme with a completely new life to the table. I usually associate b&w textiles with minimalism and simplicity, but there's nothing simple nor minimal about this collection. It's a luxurious sportswear maximalism, that's referencing both the past and the future. A quite uniquely constructed point of view.
Running equal: Unisex fashion is everything for Obekei's latest 2OB14 collection 
Architectural Androgyny: Marija Kulušić gives a fresh perspective on 21st century fashion for S/S 2014
I had to connect the b&w theme with Croatia, since it's literally the safest and most usual scheme domestic designers use, but in the sea of boring black&whiteness, I had to pick & single out only a couple. Both are young and creative, but in a completely different way. More of a sportswear vision is a brand I'm truly connected to from the beginnings of my blogging - Obekei is that sporty-luxe vision every cool kid on the block wants to wear. It's simple yet comfortable, and nothing but a hipster vision of fashionable. On the completely other side of the fashion specter (if there ever was one - and it should be!) a cool new girl is situated very safely. In this past season, I never hid my love for the work of Marija Kulušić - a fashion designer that marries architecture and fashion in a unique way that's completely feminine yet somehow remains that 21st century androgynous feel. LOVE.

Skater diffusion: T by Alexander Wang S/S 14 reflects putting together op-art and skater chic
Away from the shazzle bedazzle side of fashion is Alexander Wang's diffusion line - T by Alexander Wang, which represents everything his fashion is about, but in a more modest filter of living. It's primarily salable and heavily marketable (as any other high-fashion diffusion line), but the thing that makes it special is that insted of shedding the pieces of all points of high-fashion-ness, Wang leaves a note of skater chic he puts in all of his lines - even Balenciaga. 

My own point of view reflects a marriage of all of my loves - Michael Jackson meets Grace Jones, and KTZ meets Alexander Wang. Somewhere in between these polarising inspirations, I find it quite simple to adapt my colourful fashion sense and personality within the boundaries of black and white. Sometimes, B&W doesn't need to be 2 non-colours - if you're deft in mixing it up, it can be louder than the craziest colour combo in the world.
I decided to throw a bit of Sochi Olympics (which I'm somehow not that excited - I usually prepare myself with massive amounts of information before the Olympics, but these are not smelling right for me somehow, probably for the political reasons) with my cool new jacket which is a collab of H&M and the Swedish Olympic team. The sneaks are part of my dancing history since I trained & competed (and won!) in them for many, many years, and the scarf represents one of my favourite gifts for this Christmas!! 
Quite a sporty look came out, no?!
h&m trousers & scarf _benetton black sweater_adidas white hoodie_h&m x swedish olympic team perforated jacket_reebok sneakers_lucija vrcic backpack_giant vintage sunglasses (find them here)

xx d.

Saturday, 25 January 2014

tie-a-knot!

Ahh.. Memories. 
I remember my bow-tie phase very VERY well. Back when I thought oversized blazers were my best friends, my favourite accessory was definitely that retro moment of a bow-tie. As with all my obsessions, I started collecting quite a number of colourful pieces I really REALLY thought I needed.

So, a week or so ago, when I was scrabbling through Autumn/Winter 2014 menswear pics, I got that urge to tie something around my neck (pun fully intended). Thom Browne created yet another exaggerated costume-inspired extravaganza of a fashion show, but one quite petite and delicate piece of accessory stood out. Those knitted argyle-patterned floppy bows were an ideal detail and quite a nice point for drawing the inspiration out of the whole golf-drawn tale.
Playful greys Thom Browne settled for a playfull B&W situation, featuring wool bow-ties in his AW 2014 collection for Moncler Gamme Bleu
A tradition (well, it's not quite a trend, no?) of wearing bow-ties is highly appreciated in Hollywood. As per expectation, hipster-chic guys are all over that 'gentleman's choice of tie' schtick, but there are a few traditional guys attempting a printed/colourful bow - just to bring out the fun. Hey, everything starts with small steps, right? Maybe in a decade or so, non-fashionistas will be all over printed suits... Just maybe.
Stars to knots: Mostly hipster-chic Hollywood guys go for bow-ties, but Jesse Tyler Ferguson is THE KING of BOW-TIES
I decided to play around with my own bow-tie collection to create some inside-my-head fictional characters:
1. 80's college geek with a love for printed everything.
2. Super-bow-tie-man, a hipster version of Clark Kent - saving the world with his powerful bowtie.
3. Victorian gentleman with a secret love for black leather & red velvet.
4. 90's clown that loves anything oversized.
5. That freak that goes to buy bread & milk all dressed up.

ps. If this doesn't make any sense, try to ignore it.

So thanks to the guys from East Dane, I got a chance to share some of my online favs for the upcoming season. It's the classic-colourful mix I'm truly inspired by, so a pair of these could fix my snow-destroyed weekend.






Tuesday, 21 January 2014

Haider, how u doin'?

If someone had asked me to choose one designer I would wear for the rest of my life, without having any other piece of clothing but his/hers - right off the bat, I'd have say Haider Ackermann
It's that kind of style that's season-less, genre-less or trend-less. You know what are you going to get for each season, with always and much needed slight shifts in terms of materials/colour schemes, it's that luxurious maximalism both retro and futuristic in its own style. The shiny reversed silks he always uses have become his signature, and I think no one else dares to even try to touch his skill of handling it. A true king of layering.
Dreaming perhaps?: Haider Ackermann's vision for AW 2014 is one I'd love to see more often
His latest menswear collection inspired me to get all layered-up and (trying-to-look) effortlessly bundled into a fashionable pile of material. Cuffs that are pulled up and poking out, layers that are cinched in all the right places with dreamlike outerwear is singing from Haider's Autumn Winter 2014 collection. A slight hint of prints become statement pieces, but the base is just the perfectly balanced dove-grey, most elegant colour in the world. I already see myself wearing it - but that probably won't happen soon. The person that became somewhat of Haider's muse is one of the most stylish people out there - the stunning Tilda Swinton. Her androgynous features and statuesque looks match designer's aesthetic just about perfectly. Her ability to wear layers of clothing is majestic - to style her would be a real dream come true.
Androgynous chic: The epiphany of what 21st century fashion is all about - Tilda Swinton
In blogger lingo, the title of the queen of layering must go to the NYC gal everyone wants to be - Man Repeller's Leandra Medine. She's literally built her blog on so-called man repelling pieces (things  women love and men hate) and the moment of layering them up into perfectly fashionable little outfits. Of course - her oh, so humorous writing and unique wit heavily contributed, but the biggest reason I love her is the careless and 'I fell in the bundle of clothes and here's what I got out with' get-ups are just about what fashion is all about. Eclecticism and layers.
Witty & layery: Leandra Medine posts her casually thrown-own boho/hobo chic styles together with her witty charm to manrepeller.com
My Croatian point is a very strong one this time. Truly one of the most successful and creative fashion designers on the scene are Ogi Antunac and Zoran Mrvoš who stand behind their brand Link. I was a big fan of their dark womenswear for forever, but they really got to my head with their A/W 2013 menswear collection. After that particular moment, their own vision became one of my fashion week favourites. The latest one is definitely another winner - A/W 2014 is tough, obscure, strong and offensive minded. There's no excuses coming with those somehow minimalistic yet truly interesting and intricate pieces, and that's how I like it. The trousers they made are still on my wishlist, and I'm truly saving up some money to get me a pair of those. I truly don't know why I don't have them already.
The vision of menswear: Sounds quite cheeky, but Link AW 2013 menswear doesn't even look like it's Croatian
His or hers?!: For AW 2014, Zoran and Ogi had their own unisex vision of layered fashion
So I had to choose my 'Ackermann'-ish layery pieces out of my closet that's both out of Haider and out of Antunac&Mrvoš. It (like in most cases) fell to the choice of using mostly H&M pieces and combining them with some retro/vintage moments just to stay off that trend-on-trend route (which I'm not against!). I truly fell the tiniest glimpse of the high fashion moment wearing this outfit, but that was probably due to my intoxication on Haider Ackermann style. It's all about playing with proportions, tricking the eye of the viewer and creating a storyline that suits your own personality. A little game called fashion - you really should try it. 
thrifted Italian-made trench coat_daniel wellington classic bristol lady watch_bershka scarf_everything else from h&m

xx d.