style brick road: Transparency International

Tuesday, 7 October 2014

Transparency International

I believe every person that has a love for clothes/shoes/accessories and 'fashion' in general (in terms of personal dressing) also has that one piece of clothing/pair of shoes/accessory that they didn't get when they could.

Something of that kind has happened to me, and this is probably the first time I'm 'saying it out loud'. My one that got away is a black transparent organza parka by Link by Ogi Antunac and Zoran Mrvoš, from their SS13 collection  I can still remember the moment I saw it hanging on the rack in the studio of ELLE Croatia, waiting for the beautiful Tamara (today Tabitha) Pernar to put it on and let the genius Bruna Kazinoti shoot her. I kept touching the fine material, and constantly had to remind myself 'it's too small'. Another thing that stopped me from going in a bit deeper and finding out more about it was the fact that it was womenswear. There was a problem with grasping the fact that clothes are made for people to wear, not their genitalia. Still, something did stop me from getting my hands on it (besides those few hours in the studio). But as with everything in life, I got a second chance. And a good one indeed. This past April was the time when the talented Sonja Lamut showed her Spring/Summer 2014 collection at Cro-a-porter, was my second chance. This action-packed show served her best work to date and made me wish I was a size 2, just so I could get into those wonderful outerwear right off the runway. Thankfully, Sonja is a friend so she said yes to making me a custom-made - wait for it - transparent topcoat. It was completely different in spirit and style than the one by Ogi and Zoran, yet it somehow had a feeling of the first one. What a fantastic feeling.

Transparency has since (finally) entered my life, and as a proper tumblr geek, I have since been scrapbooking all of my favourite see-through fashion moments. Back in 1968 when Barbra Streisand picked up her best-actress Oscar in a Arnold Scassi twinset it was the beginning of naked dressing. Although Marilyn Monroe's see-my-everything dresses were literally her performance uniforms, but Barbra truly showed a middle finger to everyone with this black,white and sparkly fashion statement. A skip, hop and we're in the 90's, when nipples were cool and wearing a bra was not. Naomi Campbell pulled out her thin knit dress, while Kate Moss went all-on-display in a iridescent slip, that was brought back to life with the last H&M Studio collection. Few years later, more accurately in 1998, Rose McGowan wore a dab more than nothing to the MTV Movie Awards. Literally. Nothing. She was there with her then-boyfriend Marilyn Manson (who wore a multi-coloured cheetah suite to contrast his monochromatic face) and mooned everyone. A bit more sophisticated (yet it's hard to define sophisticated while you're focusing on one's exposed nipples) twist was Rihanna's Adam Selman outfit she wore to pick up her Fashion Icon award at this year's CFDA awards. That head-to-toe fabulous coordination reminded me of the awards back in the 60's and 70's when Cher was wearing Bob Mackey and costume designers were dressing the actresses.

Runway-wise, there were many shows that saw through their textiles - Miucca Prada for Miu Miu's AW14 and the see-through heeled wellies, and Italo Zuccheli's Calvin Klein's SS15 work has pushed the naked PVC to the limits of combining those textiles with flesh-coloured ones, and focusing on a muscular silhouette of the 90's male models, yet not in that SEXSEXSEX Versace way. For Zuccheli, it was more about the shapes, waists and shoulders, rather than being all about the six packs. A whole group of young menswear designers has embraced the translucency as the new thing for SS15 - Angelos-Frentzos combined the flowy material with the shapes of classic American sportswear into an almost haunting scheme of fashionable giants, while Jean Phillip captured the sporty factor in a more literal and layered way with pumping red mesh going all in. Berlin's menswear scene was also powerful on the mesh front - Franziska Michael had boxy overgarments over the feminine printed basics, while Julian Zigleri and Vektor by Kristina Puljan and Martin Eichler  did white transparency in a way that somehow ended up being both retro-gentleman and highly feminine. Vektor's whites were my favourites - sharp and crisp, the collection ended up with neoprene and metallics that are to die for. Two of the shows I went to during this September's SS15 London Fashion Week whose clear moments I absolutely loved were Christopher Raeburn, a (too) chilled sporty vibe I was at moments disappointed with but at moments were clapping with joy, and TOGA's  abstract-art infused collection (which will definitely be in a seperate post soon) which transparency was such a light contrast to the heavy painted textiles infused throughout the looks.
Left: LINK lookbook by Franjo Matkovic, Right: ELLE photo by Bruna Kazinoti
Celebrity photos from Google, Getty etc.
Calvin Klein Collection SS15 backstage by Essential Homme,
Angelos-Frentzos SS15, photos from The Kinsky
Jean Phillip SS15, photos from Simone Munari
Vektor by Kristina Puljan and Martin Eichler, all Berlin Fashion Week photos from Those Pieri Twins
Julian Zigerli SS15, Berlin Fashion Week
Franziska Michael SS15, Berlin Fashion Week
Christopher Raeburn SS15
I'm wearing custom made SOEL by Sonja Lamut transparent overcoat, Primark t-shirt (find similar t-shirt), H&M tapered striped trousers, Zara studded oxfords (find similar shoes), Jeepers Peepers sunglasses (find similar sunglasses), Daniel Wellington watch and Rebecca Minkoff backpack (also find in navy) +  my H&M DIY jumper around the waist