Coming back home from London usually comes with a strike of personal inspiration, and this time it wasn't a bit different. I've had my London College of Fashion MA interview on Thursday, and it went truly amazing but I'll talk about that as soon as I: a) finish my last BA exams and b) have some official info I can share.
But my university life aside, I had 2 amazing days in London (will share some pics with the LCoF report) and as always got something new to write about - something very associated the London culture that came to me while strolling down SoHo with my (beautiful) friend Dee. What some would call a nonsense looking party style, I'd call a thought-out bold fashion - or just plane rave chic. Firstly associated with the Chicago area of USA back in the 80's, it probably got a more refined image thanks to the London scene (as most subcultures did). While I'm not discussing the drug-MDMA part of this culture (which is quite inseparable if you get the idea some parts of the classic rave outfits were there for the sake of the drug), it's just the way of putting together something that doesn't quite go, a feeling that I love to get while arranging my own wardrobe. This eclectic-friendly feeling aside, the subject that makes me connect with this kind of style on a great level is the high-level connection of the style and the music. With its roots in 70's/60's psychedelic imagery (that definitely deserves and will get its own space on SBR soon) including artist like Pablo Amaringo, rave 'uniforms' are a literal fashion expression of the intense rhythms that were having a vast moment on the clubbing scene then, and I can easily say that kind of music is having its mainstream comeback these past few years. Although the real rave parties don't exist in their basic form, you can see the festivals becoming some kind of a 2010's revival of the genre, but unfortunately - the fashion isn't that brave anymore.
Designer-wise, I got a huge boost for this post by the always-amazing Susie Bubble who told me via Instagram about Meadham Kirchhoff's menswear collections that were discontinued after the Spring/Summer 2014 collection. They always did have that eclectic feel about their menswear, but a rave moment came in their S/S13 presentation - a squat-like space and a feeling of a morning-after atmosphere came through the photos, while the pieces in their own core were in strong, both wearable and interesting fashion.
On the other side of the planet there is Emma Mulholland, a young Australian name which I've also met through Susie's amazing blog during her Australian FW adventure (yay for the power of social media!), and been researching since. A very European point of view interpreted in that Californian beach mise-en-scène is how I'd describe the stereotypical Aussie fashion, but Mulholland ticks some other boxes - loud wearability and heavy 90's hip-hop influences to name only some. She sold out from Shopbop.com in a mere moment, and her prices of a great range truly fall into a young brand category. Honestly - can't wait to get a piece of hers!
On the similar spectrum of aesthetic, but back on the old continent is starstyling, a German-based brand & concept store that sells both their own collections and acquire young designers of similar point-of-view. They show truly unique lookbooks each season, and always add new silhouettes to their already recognisable street-party chic of loose boxy cuts and oversized pieces. While their S/S14 pieces are a bit more on the comfy side, considering the jerseys dominating the textile front, I can't help but fall in love with both that one and their a bit more mature A/W14 looks. It has obviously evolved from a street into a fashion brand, with its remaining relaxed approach but with a little more class. One of my personal favourites of my own closet is their oversized t-shirt covered in neon foils I got from the lovely Branka of Zagreb's ROBA store, which is one of the staple pieces of the German brand, judging by the constant sold-out status of the piece. Worn with another piece from the closet I love but wear on a rare occasion aka Topman light-denim dungarees and the Nike Roshe Run outlet-bought sneakers, I love to believe I took rave and put a SBR spin on it - yes it's loud, and very out there, but I still have my scare of getting too dirty (figuratively speaking of course) with a need to polish out the cray-cray looks. Seriously - I need to get rid of that soon, a little bit of dirty is ok - right?
Meadham Kirchhoff S/S13 menswear
Emma Mulholland (images from her website - from top to bottom: AW12, SS13, AW14)
starstyling SS14 & AW14
1. Mark McNairy New Amsterdam duck trousers, 2. Carven mosaic sweatshirt, 3. Warhorse Workshop ghostbead necklace, 4. Del Toro tennis ball chukkas, 5. Quality People eye t-shirt
1. Marc Jacobs floral rain-jacket, 2. Alejandro Ingelmo slip-ons, 3. Fjallraven backpack, 4. Gitman Vintage floral shirt, 5. 3x1 stone bleach jeans, 6. Deus Ex Machina printed tee
1. Happy Socks printed socks, 2. MSGM zip-up jacket, 3. Burkman Bros. board shorts, 4. Linda Farrow x 3.1 Phillip Lim sunglasses, 5. adidas by Raf Simons trainers, 6. Marc by Marc Jacobs printed tee