style brick road: Bombed Out

Thursday, 8 May 2014

Bombed Out

After fighting with myself over taking the time to write something on Style Brick Road for almost a week, I realised - it's just not the time when it's possible for me to write every/every other day. I defy deteriorating the personable note of this blog nor I'm going to start posting bland content just to put something on the blog. In the end - it's my personal diary, and sometimes - you just don't have the time to write something in it, as much as you love it.

And now that I'm done with excusing myself, I'm off to my newest piece of fashion history, and I hope you're right beside me... 

It always seems very interesting analysing one piece of clothing and seeing how it translated into different times, changing its nature and style for the sake of the wearer. That's definitely the case with the bomber jacket. First starting off as the uniform of the A2 US Army Air Force, the bomber jacket didn't become trendy until its (of course) first Hollywood appearance - on Frank Sinatra who was playing Coloner Joseph Ryan in Von Ryan's Express in 1965 it became a part of the wardrobe of the modern 60's man. Made out of leather, and looking a tad baggy it was comfortable and considered very on trend - as the 60's appeared very bipolar - it was either a flowy hippy style or it was a more conservative and constricted. Kind of that 60's utilitarian vibe was obvious in the latest menswear Dries Van Noten collection for the Autumn/Winter 2014 season. Although made out of more vibrant textures and colours, DVN took that hard edge and softened it up with additions of fur, knits and scuffy hems - made it both worn out and appealing.

Although Sinatra rocked the Bomber hard in the 60's, it were the late 70's when it got a completely new life - one in the hands of the skinhead subculture. Deriving from punk and acknowledged as skinheads in the early 60's, it wasn't until almost 20 years later that they became somewhat of an recognized (but not accepted) state of mind. With a rebellious spirit and a shaved head, the subculture had a signature look that didn't have a range, but had something else - a shiny polyester bomber jacket. Poofy and soft, it was a statement with both the look but also the way they wore it - with doc Martens & suspenders.
One of the designers that used the particular subculture of skinheads as a starting point for his collection was a student of Swedish School of Textiles named Gustav Falgén, whose fashion show I visited (and fell in love with) in September in London during the Spring/Summer 2014 fashion week. I already wrote a piece on the whole SSoT fashion show for the November issue of Elle Croatia, but as I had in mind the theme of the bomber jacket - I instantly thought of that very memorable collection. Gustav took the skinhead subculture and literally ran with it - the deconstructed bomber jackets created extremely interesting shapes, but also kept the vibrant and intense spirit. It was dynamic and fast in its execution, but the shapes and the cuts were nothing but perfect. If I could - all of those jackets would be mine, as well as the amazing wide-legged jeans. Literally breathtaking from a completely new point of my personal view.

Taken to modern day, bomber jackets have became a hit - from the basic cotton ones to printed silky ones, a bomber jacket translated from a symbol of particular behaviour to an everyday, ordinary piece of clothing. When I scrambled through my (too) crowded wardrobe (not to self: SELL SOME STUFF), I realised how many bomber jackets I had. It's a piece of clothing I apparently buy without even noticing it's a specific shape and look - it's just a jacket after all. Having said that, creating a fun mixture of an outfit was naturally my own purpose - taking bits of every part of its lifetime and punching it into a box named Style Brick Road. It's not always the literal 'I wear doc Martens, I'm a punk' route I go - it's sometimes more about capturing the spirit of the phenomena I'd like to portray - somewhat of my own little Met Gala. Because, why not dress like your life is a big ol' gala? 

Contemporary Picks I'm yearning for M.Nii Corduroy Surf Club Jacket (LINK)Marc by Marc Jacobs silky MJ Letterman Jacket (LINK) & Scotch & Soda Nylon Bomber Jacket (LINK)

Statement bomber jackets are a bomb for spring: Marc by Marc Jacobs Metallic Leather Bomber Jacket (LINK)3.1 Phillip Lim Embroidered Harrington Jacket with lightnings (LINK) & S&H Athletics Bird Baseball Jacket (LINK)
Wearing navy silk 80's C&A bomber jacket, purple vintage silk bomber jacket, 80's printed bomber jacket, DIY necklace and pendant, Ebay beanie, Giant Vintage sunglasses (find them here), H&M jeans and Ami Paris trainers