style brick road: tailored to satisfaction.

Friday, 7 February 2014

tailored to satisfaction.

Sometimes a man just wants to look like one. 

Aside my constant regime of looking (and enjoying) like a peacock, I sometimes feel like I need a powerful frame to outline my - just like the 'power dressing' movement in the 80's. It started with exaggerated shoulders and sharp lines in professional settings due to the need of proving authority, but it soon became a big trend with womenswear, streetwear and high fashion. 

Although I love that particular period and movement, I was always keen on a less-literal, 'no freedom 'til we're equal' (thx Macklemore!) kind of aesthetic. I was more of a wearing sexless clothes to prove sex equality type, so accentuating my manhood to the max was never my favourite kind of thing in menswear. Don't get me wrong, I love a classic suit - but I never was the kind of guy to wear one. Yet some guys so fashion-forward pulling that off.

After seeing the latest A/W shows (online unfortunately), I got two really strong but opposed currents that represent 2 sociological extremes - with masculine fashion that makes a man look like one, and the androgynous sassy-looking sex-hybrids on the other one. Independent designers mostly chose a side, but the big brands were playing a tampon-zone in between. Berluti, a Parisian heritage luxury house, has been representing a classic manly aesthetic for decades, but with just a small detail - they got my attention for good.

Although double-breasted blazers have been part of the classical 50's mobster uniform and represent a menswear tradition, but with just 2 buttons in one row - Berluti made a classic uniform into a statement. These kind of blazers were part of a typical middle-class uniform in the 70's and 80's, but only for the ladies. Less buttons meant less restriction, which made the blazer fit better with the ladies. When I found a navy blazer like this in my grandma's closet - I knew I would have one in my size one day. Although many designers got these 2-button double-breasted blazers parts of their collection, this last Berluti show created many variations and kinda made them the star of the show.
Paris meets Milan: A menswear point of view that's minimalistically luxurious yet sexy, it's Berluti's A/W 2014 perfect man
Every fashion junkie knows Olivia Palermo from her MTV-series The City where she embodied the fashion b-i-a-t-c-h status the industry is perceived as by the rest of the world. And although I wasn't keen on her constant excuses and stabbing her colleagues in the back (yes I watched the show!!) I have always been a secret fan of her style. No - it's not groundbreaking like Solange's or cray-cray like Susie Bubble's - it's that easy-to-wear, hard-to-hate schtick she does very well. Respecting people for being consistent is what I really believe in, and she's right about there. You can see her pic from 2002 and 2014, and you probably wouldn't which one is which.
One of her style highlights must be the way she puts traditionally menswear trends (like a 2-button double breasted blazer) and creates quite a feminine hype around it. I could choose from many MANY many different looks (check out her blog), but a 3-piece selection was just about enough to describe her style, which I really don't mean that in a bad way.
Hardly masculine menswear: Olivia Palermo embodies a global fashionista with her easy-to-love style that includes sharp menswear elaborated in a highly feminine way
Few weeks ago, a Spanish-based brand called tailor4less contacted me to check if I wanted to review one of their pieces, and as I was just thinking about going to the neighbourhood tailor to get a long oversized 2-button double breasted blazer done, I took a chance and said yes. I rarely do these kind of reviews, just because I feel kinda guilty if I don't like the product, so it feels somehow awkward telling the people 'look, I hate it' in a nice way. However, I did accept it this time - just because I felt kinda adventurous after reading bad reviews about tailor4less products around the global world of internet. 
I measured myself, put in the measures in their almost-fun process of shopping, and in a week or so I got my customized jacket. The part I like the most (just because I am a bits-and-bobs junkie) was the fact I could choose my own materials (both for lining and shell), the style of the blazer, but also the fact that I GOT TO ENGRAVE ANYTHING I WANTED. Childhood dream is to customise all of my clothing with engraving DinoB in it. Narcissism. Yuck.
So, I was really happy with some of the cute moments, and at a relatively low price you could get a blazer that looks how you want it, fits you as you want it, and most importantly gets you the look you wanted. The quality is right between my other Zara & H&M blazers, not the finest, but still really nice for some special occasions, though I wouldn't recommend you wearing it on a daily basis. It feels its y bitsy sweat-friendly.
Nevertheless, I felt great matching this trendy piece with my favourite classics - black skinny jeans, beatles white tee and my almost-creepers I bought in Doc Martens.
h&m coat lining worn as a jacket_tailor4less houndstooth blazer_h&m beatles t.shirt, skinny jeans & customized bag_doc martens brogues_giant vintage sunnies (find them here)

xx d.