style brick road: LFW_SS14_part_4

Wednesday, 25 September 2013


Proud of my smily girl Valentina Kuzmić @ Lulu Liu
Let's get it over with already

It's quite hard to let go of the 'London Fashion Week experience', but I need to look forward and be excited about the next year when I'll be moving there (fingers SO crossed they hurt). 

Just so you know, LFW people don't kid with the 'best for last' saying. Although Burberry was one my favourite shows, the 5th day wins the all-round award (if one ever existed). Simone Rocha, Tata Naka, Lulu Liu & Haizhen Wang.

The reason to get up early' in the morning was definitely Simone Rocha. Been excited to see her show from the moment I got the confirmation of my invite. Her past 3 collections have been in my favourites, and I consider her as one of the biggest up-and-coming designers in the world. Of course, with a John Rocha as a parent, you've got pressure to be one. But what I respect the most, her designs are not influenced by her father's way of thinking AT ALL. Yes, they're both in the similar aesthetic wheelhouse, but Simone keeps on showing freshness and youth that's very much needed in this sour world. Mud, sheep, rocks and Western Ireland. That's what she saw. I saw pearls, black & white, silk organza, tulle & brocade used in a way that's more youthful than a pair of pigtails. In the world of 'twerking', nakedness & vulagrity to see clothes that are so covered up yet so young, fresh, cool and even sexy at times - it makes you happy. There's no surprise many MANY people were crying in the audience. Even when I saw her mother standing up SO proud of what the collection became, a joy overcome my whole body. Her most successful points for me were the pearls which were such a nice touch to simple silhouettes & kinda basic accessories that made them chic, avant-garde yet still remaining wearable. Clean make-up, slightly rocker-chic hair & fab casting also played to all advances. And she showed that a young designer (ONLY 27!!!) CAN be mature.

Next were the Georgian-origin duo Tamar and Natasha Surguladze under the name of Tata Naka. It was the point where fashion and art got together and made a chic little love child. Russian Ballet combined with a Chagalle-Matisse-Picasso Modernism point of view by the famous critic called Sergei Diaghilev sounds a bit pretentious - but the clothes were everything but. Within their typical out-there routine of prints & shapes, the girls played a lot with solid-colour-blocking but went to a bit softer place. Usually their pieces are mostly bodycon either in material or shape, but this time you could see a few granny-chic pieces brought into the story. The Picasso face top & the starry dress were the standouts in my world, but the colour-blocking double-breasted 80's-inspired blazer would can rock my wardrobe ANY DAY.

Second to last came a pretty big surprise in the shape of a Lulu Liu collection. 15th century renaissance were the starting points, but the final pieces couldn't be more up-to-date and modern. The word everyone used after the show was fresh. Using intricate techniques to produce effortless clothes seemed so easy for the viewer, but everyone could see a lot of work went into it. Playing with more different states of volume made the collection look interesting while retaining the cohesion. She went from body conscious to big-ball-gown in a moment, and it looked nothing but coherent. Textiles felt luxurious to a T, and the colour scheme felt appealing to many different people (navy, light blue, pink, fuchsia, white...) Another thing I loved was that one of my homegirls Valentina Kuzmić wore 2 of her looks, so I was proud as hell. 

Haizhen Wang had the 'honour' to close my London Fashion Week experience, and I kinda fell flat. Not because it was a bad collection - it was minimalistic, clean, modern and youthful. It's probably the fact that every other show that day was visually exuberant and saturated so this show started (and ended) at a point of feeling overwhelming (at least for me). Greys, blacks and whites were the colour base with a few deep blue & silver moments added to the story. The point that threw me off a bit was that the collection was filled with beautiful modern designed pieces, but there were not a few sour thumbs that looked like basic department-store clothes (e.g. simple moto leather jacket, blouses etc.). Don't get me wrong, minimalism & simplicity can be artful and interesting, but there is a fine line between minimalistic and basic. Still, the styling of the girls helped us feel like he understands the girl he designs for.

To finish the whole LFW story off, I must say just one more thing - there was never a point in my life when I felt more exhausted, but at the same time - there was never a point in my life when I felt so fulfilled, happy and satisfied. Still collecting moments as the days go by (sneakily going through many MANY pictures I took), and satisfyingly smiling - on my own, just for myself.

Enjoy the pics! 

Simone Rocha

Tata Naka

Lulu Liu

Haizhen Wang

No such beautiful thing as proud parents @ Simone Rocha

Again parenthood beauty @ Lulu Liu
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